Foreign Ennui

I’ve been sick for a week now, a sinus infection followed by a cough. For the first time, I feel like I can breathe a bit. These moments happen. Then an hour or two later, I feel ill again. 

I’m staying in a large, dusty house–perhaps a hotel at one time–somewhere near the outskirts of Arequipa. There are enough beds for ten people, I think. And each room has its own bathroom, which makes me suppose at one point travelers use to rent rooms here. I visited each bathroom, vainly wishing for hot water, pulling levels and following complicated plumbing structures to realize my mistake, but nothing. No hot water just the same cool air pouring from the windows and the same cold water dripping on my hand. I hear a burst of water from a near bathroom. Perhaps G-d has given me a miracle? I place my hand underneath the water and my hand turns blue instead of red. 

I return to my bed to sit at a particular spot near the window that receives Internet. Then I read my first Jorge Luis Borges short story, “The Gospel According to Mark” about a cosmopolitan Buenos Aires man who goes to the countryside where he pretends to understand the Bible and reads it to country people. In the end, they crucify him.  

Another girl spent the night in this mansion. She’s British with a friendly smile and a contagious laugh. We spoke for five minutes, quick fluent English, and then she left to work on one of the projects for the children.  Besides that, I have spoken the young man hired to clean.  I felt awkward watching someone else clean the house while I eat bread with honey and tea. So, I played Maná. Then Amy Winehouse. He loved Amy Winehouse and asked what the meaning of the songs, “Rehab” and “You Know I’m No Good”.  I studied Spanish while he worked. Nonetheless, I don’t care what country I visit. I doubt I will every get use to other people working.  

I suppose I don’t feel like I’m in a foreign country. Of course, the bathroom remains a bit of a reminder, but for the most part with my computer, a stolen wireless connection, and my books I feel at home in Peru. At least, until I speak. 

Pros and Cons of Perú

My first week and a half has been rather difficult here. I’ve had a bad cough and infrequent Internet. With that said, now I can talk about what I miss about America: 

1. The Bathroom

-You cannot flush toilet paper down the toilet. I have learned this the hard way very early in the morning when I have forgotten I am in Peru.

-Hot Showers: Not easy to find. Due to the price of heating water and the fact that Peru has a warm climate, hot showers are not a guarantee. When the winter nights reach 60 F, a cold shower isn’t exactly a comfortable when to relax into bed. 

2. Heat, in General

-The low here in the coldest winter night is only around 50 F, but no buildings in Peru have heat. It’s fairly difficult to sleep if you unprepared for cold nights. I wear two thick shirts, alpaca socks, pants and sleep with my head underneath the sheets. This usually keeps me warm.

 

Now what I love about Peru:

1. The Food. The Food. The Food. 

Always fresh. However, if you are a vegetarian (assuming you eat fish) the inner lands will be difficult for you. Lima, a costal city, has plenty of seafood to choose from at most restaurants unless you go to a “Pollo a La Brasa” . These are  rotisserie chicken houses found nearly at every corner for fairly cheap. Typically Peruvian food has a lot of wonderful, grilled meat. Most places (with some tourism) will have some sort of alternative, vegetarian food or you can always settle for some potato dish and vegetables at most places. 

The price of food is also something to brag about. A decent breakfast only cost about 2-4 soles ($.67-$1.34) A “menú” lunch is usually a large soup and the choice of three different lunches. This usually cost between 4-6 soles ($1.34-$2.01). And finally, a fancy dinner usually includes soup, sometimes salad, a main dish and glass of wine cost about 14 soles (4.69).  

2. Alpaca Socks

So for about 60 soles ($20.10), I bought: alpaca socks, alpaca slippers, a pair of woven pj bottoms, and three unnamed gifts. Sweet. 

Okay, I know this isn’t very interesting. In short, I love the food and things here are dirt cheap compared to pricey, Chicago.  Since, I’ve been almost bedridden with a cough since I’ve arrived to Arequipa (June 24th), I’m not entirely too interesting. But please stay tuned. . .

New York Times: Traveling in Lima Suggestions

Here’s the NYT suggestions of things to do in Lima. Of course, I won’t be an expert for a few more months.  

Potato Wars!

Peruvians and Bolivians scientists debate where the potato originated. 

Okay, here’s the comic summary. Peruvians want to claim the potato started in their garden, but Chileans think it started in their posh land. And uh, in the backdrop, Bolivia starts yelling, “No! NO! It started in MINE!” 

Final Book Selection

1.  Motorcycle Diaries by Ernesto Guevara

 Too bad Gael García Bernal doesn’t come with the book. 

2. The Lazarus Project by Aleksandar Hemon

Yeah, I know. I have a lit crush on him. What do you expect?

3. Mischiefs of the Bad Girl (Travesuras de la niña mala) by Mario Vargas Llosa

 I picked it because I liked the title and Llosa was born in Arequipa. Simple. as. that. Thanks Oscar!

4. The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Diaz 

Terry Gross’ Interview with Diaz

I first heard about this book on NPR.  Gross interviewed Diaz last October and he seemed to be a good story teller with a dorky sense of humor. And Leah recommended it. I think I trust both Terry and Leah.

5. A travel/history book about Peru (To be determined)

6. Spanish dictionary and grammar book plus 501 Spanish Verbs 

Amazon Moral Conundrum

New Amazon Tribe

An unknown tribe was found in the Amazon on the border of Peru and Brazil. Unlike Brazil, Peru does not have an association to help indigenous tribes. In this article, they debate whether or not it’s moral meet with these “uncontacted tribes”. However, if you look at the angle of the photographs, they had to be taken from a helicopter (or some other aircraft), and if you look closely you can see the “uncontacted tribe” pointing their bows and arrows toward the sky, most likely aiming at the aircraft. From an ethical standpoint, you have to evaluate whether or not this”uncontacted tribe” is really “uncontacted” after encountering modern-day aircraft. Now the tribe has seen aircraft, how do you begin to explain aircraft to people who live in the jungle? Additionally, the article also explains many people from a “uncontacted tribe” died of disease after outside contact. Also, do you have to contact the tribe in order to protect them?